Short answer: it depends on the series, and the series is stamped on the head. A Unity 325 takes a 50-watt sealed-beam halogen rated at 160,000 candlepower. A 330 takes an H3 100-watt halogen rated at 245,000 candlepower. The 335 and X335 are LED lamp assemblies — they are replaced as a unit, not re-lamped.
How do I find my series number?
The series is part of the part number on the head or on the box: 325, 330, 335 or X335, usually followed by a shaft code such as GM, V, A or H. If the label is gone, the head itself tells you. The 325 has a 6-inch S04 head with a glass lens and reflector. The 330 has a 6-inch high-intensity head with a polycarbonate lens carrying a UV inhibitor. The 335 and X335 heads are high-impact PC/ABS, and the X335 is vented with a GORE-TEX membrane. If you are looking at a glass lens, you have a 325.
Unity bulb reference by series
| Series | Lamp | Output | Rated life |
|---|---|---|---|
| 325 | 50W sealed beam halogen | 160,000 cd | 100 hours |
| 330 | H3 100W halogen | 245,000 cd | 100 hours |
| 335 | PAR46 30W LED | 215,000 cd | 50,000 hours |
| X335 | 30W X-LED composite | 225,000 cd | 50,000 hours |
Why is the 330 rated in candlepower and not lumens?
Unity rates its lamps in candlepower — luminous intensity in the direction the lamp is pointed — because that is what determines how far a spotlight reaches. Lumens count all the light a lamp emits in every direction, which is the right measure for a room light and the wrong one for a spotlight. If you see a Unity spotlight advertised in lumens, the figure has been converted or invented by the seller.
Why does the 330 use a common H3 bulb?
Deliberately. Unity specified the H3 for availability and economy: it is a standard automotive bulb you can buy almost anywhere, which matters when a fleet vehicle is down and the spotlight is part of the duty checklist. The trade-off is the 100-hour rating — normal for a halogen at this intensity, and the main reason fleets move to LED.
My lamp works but the beam is weak. Is it the bulb?
Often it is the lens, not the lamp. Polycarbonate yellows and crazes under years of UV and heat, which scatters the beam and costs distance long before the bulb fails. If the bulb lights normally but the beam has gone soft and short, fit a replacement lens first. On a 330 you also want a new trim ring, because the ring holds the lens seal in compression.
Can I put an LED lamp in a halogen head?
Not by swapping the bulb. The practical LED route is to fit an X-LED head to your existing bracket and handle: the shaft, handle and wiring carry over, so you pay for the lamp assembly only. See the halogen-to-LED guide for what carries over and what does not.
Not sure the bulb is at fault? See Unity's step-by-step electrical test.
